How to Install the eXtremeRate DFS LED Kit in Your Joy-Cons

The eXtremeRate Joy-Con DFS LED Kit ($37.99) adds multi-color backlighting to Joy-Con face buttons and directional buttons. The kit supports 7 colors, 9 lighting modes, and works with both original Switch and OLED Joy-Cons. This Joy-Con LED mod install guide covers the complete installation process, from disassembly to final testing.

What’s in the DFS LED Kit

Component Quantity Purpose
LED button PCB (left Joy-Con) 1 Replaces the standard button membrane with an LED-equipped board
LED button PCB (right Joy-Con) 1 Same function for ABXY buttons
Translucent button caps Full set (both Joy-Cons) Light-transmitting buttons that allow LED glow to pass through
Ribbon cables 2 Connect LED PCBs to Joy-Con main boards
Screwdrivers (Y00 tri-wing + Phillips #00) 1 each Required for Joy-Con disassembly

Before You Start: Compatibility Check

The DFS LED Kit is compatible with:

  • Nintendo Switch Joy-Cons (HAC-015 / HAC-016) — original and V2
  • Nintendo Switch OLED Joy-Cons (same internal layout)

It is not compatible with Switch Lite (integrated controls) or Switch Pro Controller (different button layout).

If you’ve done a Joy-Con shell swap before, this installation follows the same disassembly process with one additional step: swapping the button membrane for the LED PCB. If this is your first time opening a Joy-Con, read the complete shell replacement guide first for the foundational disassembly steps.

Installation Overview

Estimated time: 45-60 minutes for both Joy-Cons (first time). 25-30 minutes with experience.

Difficulty: Moderate. The LED PCB installation adds complexity beyond a standard shell swap because the ribbon cable routing requires precise alignment.

Step 1: Disassemble the Joy-Con

Remove the four tri-wing screws on the back of the Joy-Con. Gently separate the back shell from the front shell using a plastic spudger. Disconnect the battery ribbon cable first — always disconnect power before working on electronics.

Step 2: Remove the Original Button Membrane

The standard button membrane sits between the buttons and the Joy-Con main board. It’s a thin rubber sheet with conductive pads. Lift it out carefully — the membrane is held in place by alignment pegs, not adhesive.

Step 3: Install the LED PCB

Place the LED PCB in the same position where the membrane sat. Align it with the button posts so each LED sits directly beneath its corresponding button. The PCB has alignment guides that match the Joy-Con’s internal pegs.

Step 4: Connect the Ribbon Cable

Route the LED PCB’s ribbon cable to the Joy-Con main board. The cable connects to a ZIF (zero insertion force) connector — flip the lock tab up, slide the cable in with the contacts facing down, then close the lock tab. Do not force the cable. If it doesn’t slide in smoothly, the orientation is wrong.

Step 5: Install Translucent Buttons

Replace the original opaque buttons with the translucent button caps included in the kit. These caps allow the LED light to pass through. Standard opaque buttons block the light and defeat the purpose of the mod.

Step 6: Reassemble and Test

Reconnect the battery, close the shell halves, and install the screws. Pair the Joy-Con with the Switch and test the LED controls.

LED Controls

Action Button Combination
Turn LEDs on/off Press and hold SL + SR for 5 seconds
Cycle through colors Short press SL + SR when LEDs are on
Change lighting mode Varies by kit version — check included instructions

The 7 available colors cycle through red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, yellow, and white. The 9 modes include solid, breathing, rainbow cycle, and reactive (lights respond to button presses).

Best Shell Pairings for LED Mods

LED button mods look best in transparent or dark-colored shells that allow the glow to stand out:

Opaque solid-color shells work too, but the LED effect is only visible through the button caps rather than through the entire shell surface.

Common Installation Issues

LEDs don’t turn on after installation. Check the ribbon cable connection. The most common cause is the cable not being fully inserted into the ZIF connector. Open the lock tab, reseat the cable, and close the tab firmly.

Some buttons don’t light up. The LED PCB may not be aligned correctly with the button posts. Disassemble and verify that each LED sits directly beneath its corresponding button opening.

Buttons feel mushy after the mod. The LED PCB is thicker than the original membrane. If buttons feel spongy, check that the translucent button caps are fully seated and that no debris is trapped between the PCB and the shell. See 7 Common Problems When Installing Custom Shells for additional troubleshooting.

FAQ

Does the LED kit drain the Joy-Con battery faster?

Yes, but the impact is modest. LED backlighting draws additional power, reducing Joy-Con battery life by approximately 15-25% depending on the lighting mode (breathing modes draw less than constant-on). Joy-Cons have a 20-hour battery life stock, so even with LEDs running you get 15+ hours per charge.

Can I install the LED kit without changing the shell?

Yes. The LED PCB installs inside the existing shell. You don’t need to change the outer housing. However, the LED effect is significantly better with transparent shells because the glow is visible through the entire controller surface rather than just through the button caps.

Can I combine the LED kit with a D-Pad shell?

The left Joy-Con LED PCB is designed for the standard four-button layout. D-Pad conversion shells like the Glacier Blue D-Pad Shell use a different button arrangement. Check the specific LED kit version for D-Pad compatibility — some kits include a D-Pad LED configuration, but not all.

Will the LEDs interfere with gameplay in dark rooms?

At maximum brightness, the glow can be distracting in very dark rooms. The breathing and dim modes reduce intensity for comfortable night gaming. The on/off toggle (hold SL+SR 5 seconds) lets you disable LEDs instantly when needed.

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